The Amazon Rainforest, Peru
When in South America, much like ‘when in Rome’, a trip to the Amazon rainforest is for some, an absolute must. It was for me! But, the Amazon spans a whopping 6.7 million square km of the South American continent and 9 of the 12 countries. So which country do you choose to visit it from with so much choice? Almost 60% of the Amazon rainforest is in Brazil but parts of it cover Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Peru, Suriname, Venezuela and French Guiana.
To make this decision easier, I had heard that the Amazon, is the Amazon, wherever you see it from. One area of it, is said to be pretty much as bio diverse as the next, so you shouldn’t overthink it too much. You could choose to see if from anywhere and still have the same chance of seeing the nature and wildlife, but perhaps with a few varying factors:
Price: Cost based on the currency of the country you are in, is a definite consideration (Bolivia was undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries in South America so could be the cheapest option to visit the Amazon from).
Time of Year: If you are in Peru or Ecuador where half the year is rainy season, river banks can be high after a fresh fall of rain. High, murky, muddy waters can make the chances of seeing wildlife along the river banks slim to non existent, so try to consider the time of year in the country you are in and go in the drier months.
The tour company: If travelling solo a tour company is great, as usually you will join a group with other travellers to explore with - I don't recommend venturing into the Amazon solo! However, some tours will only touch the edge of the Amazon, and some will be prepared to take you much further into the deepest darkest depths. Find out on a map exactly where you are going with the tour company before booking. For me I wanted to go to area without much civilisation.
The Manu National Park
I chose to do a 3 nights, 4 day tour to the Amazon rainforest, Peru, to an area that is arguably deemed the highest concentration of biodiversity on the earth. 3 to 4 hours drive away from Cusco, a tip of the Amazon rainforest begins in south eastern Peru and a vast area of rainforest reaches out across the landscape for approx 15,328 square km. This area, first a nature reserve in the 60’s, was then named a national park in the 70’s - ‘The Manu National park’. It's actually the largest national park in Peru.
It’s so vast and dense that most tours I looked into, only just touched the very edge of this area, predominantly the areas inhabited by local communities. These communities largely sit along The Madre de Dios river, which further downstream joins the even larger Madeira river and ultimately the Amazon river. However, the particular tour I chose, was to go a step deeper into the jungle, up the Manu river, which is a tributary to The Madre de Dios river.
The tour provided lodges as opposed to camping and an important check is that that lodges are fully kitted out with mosquito nets. I booked through Vertigo Travel, a local Peruvian business based in Cusco and was in a group of 10, perfect if you are travelling solo and want to meet people! If this sounds like something you would really like to do, for the remainder of this blog I am going to provide an account based on the 4 day itinerary, the wildlife you can expect to see, plus some useful tips, so read on!
Day 1- The Cloud Forest
We left Cusco around 4am and drove via minibus, 3 to 4 hours to the entrance of the Manu National Park. From there, it was a mix of driving and walking to explore as much as possible. As the name suggests the cloud forest is an area of forest where the cloud is so low, the trees and vegetation are mostly in constant mist and humidity. This is ideal for plant life and also birds. The orchids and flowers are really special and there are also hidden waterfalls cascading over the cliff-sides.
Along the road there were various lookout points looking down over vast green valleys. Where the landscape drops down, it was often possible to see clear luscious, green views underneath the vast misty clouds.
This area is also where it’s possible to see the famous Andean Cock of the Rock. This is the national Peruvian bird so I am not sure if it lives in other parts of the Amazon, but despite its bright red colour you still have to look carefully to spot it.
We finished the first day at the Bamboo lodge, situated on the edge of the cloud forest and the entrance to the jungle.
Day 2- Into the Jungle
The morning at Bamboo Lodge saw some fascinating insect life, my favourite of all, a ‘Leaf praying Mantis’ and when you see the picture you will see how aptly named it is.
After breakfast we drove to edge of The Madre De Dios river ready to travel to our next destination by boat. It was 4-5 hours to the next lodge (Dorado Lodge) whilst wildlife spotting the whole way.
Although nowhere near as big as the Amazon river, this river is still huge and rich with wildlife along its shores. As mentioned earlier, further downstream it joins the Madeira river and the eventually the Amazon river itself. In general as there are more people living along this area wildlife spots were a little fewer but we we did see Capybara (the world’s largest rodent) and a very brave little armadillo in the water passing by our boat crossing to the other side. Luckily there are no crocs or caiman here as they don’t like strong currents.
We had a stop for lunch and a visit to the natural hot springs. They smelt so strongly of sulphur but were so warm which was needed as it was a wet, rainy day.
In the evening, from the Dorado Lodge, we put on thick rubber boots and headlamps for a night walk through the jungle, hoping to see Tapir at the end. We waited and waited in silence, in the dark with just the moonlight and sadly the Tapir did not appear (they are actually more shy to come out in bright moonlight due to predators), but here is some of the other amazing night life we saw.
Day 3 - In a Canoe up The Manu
Today was the day to take the boat up the Manu river. We set off in the misty morning very early around 5am. The Manu shares its name with the national park itself and has very few human inhabitants along its banks. Any further in than this, in fact requires a special permit usually for the odd scientist or biologist, but not many have ever set foot further in than the Manu river. There are known to be indigenous tribes living there, who are very isolated from society and not at all used to seeing people from local civilisations.
For us the river was very high from a heavy rainfall the day before, so wildlife spots were more tricky but we did see turtles, macaws, spider monkeys and howler monkeys.
Travelling up the Manu river, very high waters after rainfall
A good journey up the Manu river lies several lakes that would have been formed when the Manu river floods in the rainy season, leaving overspill forming giant pockets of water. With no currents its perfect environment for Black Caiman. We ventured intro the jungle on a hot and humid walk, alive with mosquitos, to one of these lakes. The vegetation was thick and our tour guide carried a machete, an essential item if you stray from the path to hack off branches to mark the way you are going. The competition in the plant life was very apparent, each in a silent race to reach the light. Some trees of an enormous size had evidently won, while others were being used as a ladder by vines to reach the top. Trees had adapted incredibly clever ways to thwart the vines, some creating sharp nobbles on their bark and others peeling off their bark completely along with the vine attached.
At the lake we hoped to see giant otters and black caiman (a type of square nosed crocodile). We in fact saw turtles, and a very brave anteater swimming across with a caiman fast in its pursuit. The anteater did in fact make it to the other side safely. We were not lucky enough to see the giant otters on this occasion but such is the nature of wildlife.
Day 4- Out of The Jungle
Today was a day, purely for wildlife spotting as once in the jungle, we of course had to make the journey back! The return journey was part boat, back along the Madre De Dios river and part minibus through the cloud forest and on to Cusco. It may sound like a long day of travel, as it was in fact 11 hours, but the day was still enjoyed with regular stops and even more wildlife spots.
The Wildlife
So let’s talk about the wildlife you might see in a little more detail, as of course, this is really one of the main reasons for venturing into the Amazon rainforest. You have the chance of seeing an incredible amount of wildlife but of course not always, it is very much based on luck. Here are just some of the things you might hope to see:
Tapirs
Giant Otters
Spider Monkeys
Black Caiman
Macaws
Andean Cock of the Rock
Turtles
Toucans
Howler monkeys
Snakes
Tarantulas
Possum
Stick insects
Humming birds
Capybara
Anteater
Armadillo
Toads
Parrots
If you happen to see a jaguar this is really special and rare. They aren’t generally known for being spotted easily as they are so stealth like and don’t tend to get caught out by humans. I learn't the best time to have a chance of spotting a Jaguar in the Manu National Park is in July and August, (the weather is best and you may see them on the shores of the river).
The Amazon rainforest Peru, is known to be home to over 1025 different types of bird. A bird watchers haven! We saw more birds than anything else and such a variety of colours, shapes and sizes. Here are some I was lucky enough to see and photograph:
Humming birds are a likelihood anywhere in the national park, especially around bright tubular shaped flowers. Some are the more common types, you will see regularly, but there are also some very special and rare types.
A last highlight for me was to see a Tarantula! I had seen many amazing spiders but the Tarantula was a marvellous spot. They are not harmful to humans, the shape of their pincers would find it hard to pierce human skin. This one was hidden away in its little cave home.
Challenges in the Jungle
1. Heat:
I’ve already mentioned mosquitos were a problem during this trip but I wanted to expand a little further on the heat as well as mosquitos. During day 3, where the jungle walk was planned, it was important to wear long sleeves and trousers to prevent getting bitten as much as possible. The mosquitos were everywhere, it was like walking through clouds of them along some parts of the jungle path. If they landed long enough some were even biting through your clothes. I found the balance of keeping cool and keeping covered at the same time very hard. If you have one, or can get one, take a special mosquito hat with the mosquito net attached. They are light and the net lets the air reach your face. I was using a neck bandana to cover my neck and face as much as possible, and a cap, but I really did over heat in the humidity with this combo. Also try find light coloured clothing that is also very light weight/cool to wear, whites and beiges are good. Black is not a good colour as it attracts more heat than white and also attracts more mosquitos (don’t ask me why!)
2. Ticks
Yes, as in the disgusting blood sucking little arthropods. We all know these can be picked up in the long grass in many places around the world but in the jungle even more so! For me the biggest challenge as a female was going to the toilet 'au naturale'. After staying covered for the duration as much as possible, going to the toilet gives you no choice but to bear your flesh to the mosquitos (who have a party) and of course ticks. Unfortunately I managed to get a tick. It embedded itself deeply in the side of my inner thigh and stayed there for 48 hours until I noticed it and had it removed. It resembled a little mole, like the moles I actually have all over my legs. I think this is why it didn’t stand out. They are clever, as something is released when they bite preventing irritation and itching so you really do not feel that they are there. But left unfound can be dangerous causing Limes disease. So, do watch out for these and check you body for anything unknown each day.
3. Correct footwear:
You are in a natural habitat of many creepy crawlies, snakes, ants, spiders etc, so it is important to make sure your tour provide thick rubber boots for the jungle walks. You very much need these to protect you. The ants can be really large and everywhere. They would easily get in your socks and shoes, so boots are best, plus a snake won't be able to bite through the rubber.
Quick little round up:
I thoroughly loved this Amazon adventure and wouldn’t have missed the opportunity for the world, despite the overheating and the tick bite! The wildlife was simply phenomenal. I do think however, it is important to know the challenges so you are best prepared for them. Most tours will brief you fully on all this anyway but this usually happens the day before, once you have booked and paid, so I think it is useful to know before hand! We actually weren't forewarned about ticks so this information would have made it easier for me, if I had known to look out for them!
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