Galavanting in the Galapagos
I just had to write a blog about the Galapagos Islands, despite there being many many blogs out there on this volcanic wildlife haven already. Why? Simply because I loved it! I love wildlife and I couldn’t get enough of it, exploring these islands. The Galapagos really are unique, not only for the animals but for the respect that we as humans have learnt to show towards them.
However, I think it is important to acknowledge that there is a silent struggle going on with the preservation of these islands. Whereas tourists are welcome to visit for the money they bring, they are actually just as much of a threat to it. What is so special about the islands, is the endemic species that live there but across the course of time, humans travelling from all over the world put these species and the fragile ecosystem they live in, at risk. First, by the potential to accidentally bring in new species from the outside world and second, by more people simply moving to the Galapagos to service the increase in tourism, taking up vital land mass that was once the animals homes. So when visiting the Galapagos, it is crucial to respect the rules they have in place for entering the islands.
There are 16 large islands forming the Galapagos, each and every one full of volcanic activity. Every time a volcano erupts, in theory the islands gradually get further and further apart. I was surprised at just how far apart some of the islands actually are!
So with there being 16 islands, how does one go about choosing which are the best to visit? Well in truth, I didn’t. I let a tour decide for me. The logistics of the Galapagos Islands can be a little on the complex side if going independently because if you want to island hop, there is a lot of planning and admin required to sort out flights, hotels and boat transfers for multiple islands. Therefore a tour can be the better option as all of this is handled for you!
If you are on a very tight travel budget going independently would certainly be the cheapest option, whereas a cruise would be the most expensive but I felt I found a happy medium with a guided island hop tour. If you are going independently read on as perhaps my guided tour experience can give you some tips on best places to visit.
Cruising to Santa Cruz
After landing at the airport on Baltra Island, it was a short bus journey through very dry, arid terrain to the boat taking us to the first main stop, Santa Cruz Island.
Setting foot on Santa Cruz Island was like walking into a sea life centre. Peering down into the harbour water, were baby sharks, sea turtles, shoals of golden cow nosed rays, pelicans and sea lions. The wildlife activity going on in the water around us was astounding.
Shoal of Golden Cow Nosed Rays swimming in the harbour of Santa Cruz Island
Further away from the water, sea lions simply lay relaxing everywhere. On benches, on pavements, strewn along the sea front. They were not bothered by humans one tiny bit.
Much the same, was attitude of the black marine iguanas. They lay snoozing in groups on the warm stone, arms stretched down by their sides, chins resting on the ground and eyes shut in a peaceful slumber. Their mini faces a slight resemblance with that of Godzilla.
Santa Cruz Island of course is home to the Charles Darwin Foundation and also a sanctuary for the giant land tortoise. Here you could watch the tortoises at a close distance, cumbersome and prehistoric looking- they were fascinating! At full size they can be up to 150 years old! And their faces wrinkled and leathery looking as if they are full of archaic wisdom.
To get an idea of their size, inside the foundation's visitor centre was a mock tortoise shell which most of us could actually just squeeze inside.
Also at the sanctuary were baby tortoises of different sizes. It's interesting to think that when these babies reach full size, no human around today will be there to see them. Small male lizards performed little macho press ups on the walls of the enclosure, trying to out do the other with their prowess.
First impressions of the Galapagos Islands were bettering my expectations. Our tour guide suggested we try hugging a cactus tree for good energy with mother earth- don’t worry it's not as prickly as it sounds, these particular Cacti have tree trunks with bark.
Inspiring Isabela Island
The next day we caught a boat from the harbour to Isabela Island. Our bags all had to be scanned for organic matter and sealed before boarding the boat and the base of our shoes checked. They were looking for things such as seeds. The boat was largely indoors but I managed to bag a seat at the very back in the fresh sea air so the long 2 hour journey flew by looking at the surrounding sea, spotting the odd fin or turtle flipper.
Isabella Island had a beautiful beach, something I hadn’t been expecting so much on the Galapagos. With so much volcanic activity I had imagined beaches with black sands and craggy lava rocks, but this was soft white sands and beautiful blue sea.
This was also going to be first opportunity to snorkel and get in the water with the sea lions. Not far from where the boats docked, to the right, was a wooden decked path that led to a small bay perfect for snorkelling. You will spot the path as actually the marine iguanas love to congregate at the start on the stone slabs. Here I also managed to get stung by a Galapagos wasp, on my arm pit of all places! Watch out for those they are ferocious!
At the bay I had my first encounter up close with a sea lion, who swam up onto the steps entering the water and sat there, peacefully for the whole time.
The Lava Tunnels
Whilst on Isabela Island, I think one of the very best things you can do is visit the Lava Tunnels or Los Tuneles in Spanish. This is a very special area of the coast line that has tunnels, pillars and bridges poking out of the sea formed of black and grey craggy lava.
This area is not only beautiful to look at but is home to the notorious Blue Footed Booby. I had wanted to see this bird nearly all of my adult life so far, and here I was, having stepped off the boat onto the lava for less that 30 paces and already I was witnessing something very very special. The Blue Footed Boobies were in mating season, and happening right in front of us was a mating ritual. We stood silently in awe. The male boobie performed a little dance with his feet, gently lifting each one up and placing it back on the ground. There was a high pitched whistle and his wings opened wide. What was remarkable was the female started to reciprocate his moves, opening her wings in a synchronised action. They were perfectly in time. The male then started to find small twigs and sticks and gift them to the female for their nest. We watched this for at least 15 minutes before the male flew off. Don’t worry he returned shortly after, once a mate is chosen, the boobies partner for the rest of their lives.
Video footage of the Blue Footed Booby mating ritual seen at the the Lava Tunnels, Isabela Island
This trip to the tunnels also involved another snorkel opportunity in the surrounding waters and the next mind blowing moments happened. Giant green pacific sea turtles swam under and up around us, eating from the base of the sea bed. Giant pacific sea horses could be seen at depths of 3 metres camouflaged in the sea bed. It was necessary to free dive to see them. White tipped sharks up to 2 metres in length, were lurking in the warmer water of lava tunnels. Our guide asked us who wanted to be pushed down under the tunnels so we could get a good look at the sharks- all of us did! So after taking a deep breath in, he grabbed our wetsuits at the back and lowered us under. I was as close as 2 feet from 7 or 8 sharks! When breath was running out we gave a simple thumbs up signal, and our guide propelled us up and out of the caves.
I mention wet suits as the water here was in fact quite cold and once in it for any significant amount of time a wet suit was actually very necessary for warmth.
The last excursion on Isabela Island was to hike to the second largest Caldera in the world- the Sierra Negra. It wasn’t a long hike, in fact just a one hour trip there and back. On the way we saw a vermillion fly catcher, bright red, endemic to the island and thought to be only 500 of them left. A rare spot.
The caldera at the top was vast- over 9 kilometres in diameter and still very much active in parts. It would be a great hike around it, but not possible to walk directly across it. Apparently if you tried you could fall through the black lava to red hot filled lava caves.
Kiss and tell in San Cristobal
Only joking, no gossiping on tour romances in this blog but it makes for a good rhyming title!
The final Island included in the tour was San Cristobal. The largest of the islands and perhaps arguably one of the most beautiful. The harbour and main high street was like the city of the sea lions, there were literally hundreds of them everywhere. One small beach barely had sand showing for the thick carpeting of sea lions lay slumping next to and top of each other.
San Cristobal had some remarkable places to visit. From Kicker Rock- known for diving and snorkelling and even the possibility of the seeing a whale shark, to volcanic craters such as El Junco Crater Lake and beautiful beaches such as Puerto Chino beach which had white sand that felt like flour on your feet.
Tour details:
This particular tour was done with G Adventures and was 9 days in the Galapagos starting and finishing in Quito. It cost approx £1,400 (now on sale at £1,199) including flights, accommodation, breakfasts and all activities except the day trip to the Lava Tunnels on Isabela. Our tour guide Gustavo grew up on San Cristobal and was excellent. There are of course many more smaller islands to visit but for me this tour included an excellent snapshot of the what the Galapagos is really like and was enough.
https://www.gadventures.com/trips/galapagos-snorkelling/8916/itinerary/
Useful tips if visiting the Galapagos Islands:
If booking your own flights you need to ensure you book a return
Baltra Island and San Cristobal Island are the only two islands with airports
San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela are 3 wonderful islands to visit as a starting point
Do not take seeds, or organic produce with you, it is not allowed to try and protect the fragile ecosystem
Always respect the wildlife and don’t go closer than 2 metres
Watch out for wasps they are vicious!
Happy Travelling!
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