A Whale of a time: Whale watching in Argentina
Seeing a whale is a rare moment in life for most of us. It feels like a moment in time that you can get lost within. It's surreal, majestic, peaceful, magical and humbling. These creatures live in a different world to us and to see them in their natural environment is like seeing the world through new eyes. So, if you are travelling in South America and want to experience whale watching in Argentina like I've just described, read on!
Where to find them!
In September and October, Valdés Peninsula in Argentina is one of the best places in South America to guarantee seeing a whale. The peninsular itself is set off the east coast of Argentina at the very north of the Patagonia region and it is a hub for wildlife. It is approximately a 2 hour flight from Buenos Aires to the small town of Puerto Madryn and really requires a return flight to BA airport as it's very hard to get anywhere further south from there without flying. Puerto Madryn is really the only place to stay in order to visit both the whales and do other wildlife watching from in and around the area.
The Southern Right Whale
The Southern Right whale is the main species of whale most commonly found in this area. In fact, a third of all Southern Right whales in the world use the bays of the Valdés Peninsula in Argentina to mate and give birth between the months of May and December. This is why actually September and October are prime time for seeing the mothers and their calves together. Southern Right whales specifically are covered in calluses and barnacles which can often be used as an identification, to recognise one whale from another. It is actually one of the larger species of whale, the average males getting up to 13 to 15 metres in length and the females even bigger! What is very positive to understand is that the Southern Right whales are one of the only types of whales today, to have started to recover in numbers after the detriment of centuries of commercial whale hunting and the bays of the Valdés Peninsula are very much protected.
Respect for the whales
From what I could tell, the boat tours operating from the bay, have a strict rule that they do not chase after the whales. The boat leaves, and once out into the open water of the bay, the engine is cut and the boat drifts. It is up to the whales if they want to approach or not. However, they are safe from predators in the bay and relaxed enough to carry on about their day at ease with the boats and sometimes are even playful and curious. So, if you are planning to visit these magnificent creatures, please do your research and ensure your visit is ethical and has the whale's best interests at heart. I did a tour with Botazzi Whale Watch and the captain of our boat was both respectful and knowledgeable about the animals so can recommend!
At times you would hear a phenomenal smacking, crashing sound, almost deep in pitch, and realise a whale in the distance had just leapt out of the water and crashed back down in a playful jump. Not a sound you get to hear everyday. Most of the whales that came up very close to the boat were the calves, still huge in size but some so incredibly playful; the mothers were never far away. In the silence of the bay, with the boat engines cut the sound of their exhale was all that could be heard, and slow steady flashes as their blubber glided out of the waters surface and back under, finishing with the flick of a forked tail.
Penguin Colonies and Elephant Seals
The Valdés Peninsula also has one of the largest Magellanic penguin colonies known and is simply another wonderful wildlife attraction in this area. The penguin colony near Punta Norte stretches out across the land for miles and miles and is believed to have up to 300,000 penguins! The penguins are not remotely bothered by humans but again require respect and a minimum distance of at least 1 metre. The general rule of thumb was if a penguin is crossing the path, you wait for him/her to do so before passing yourself. Penguins have right of way!
Again September and October are prime months to visit the penguin colonies as the penguins themselves only begin to arrive for nesting in these months.
Also lazing peacefully on certain well known beaches in the Valdés Peninsula area are the enormous elephant seals. They are mostly resting and laying still but if you see an adult male move to defend his area, the sheer size and weight is astounding and also rather intimidating. Not the most graceful animals on land but where they lack grace on land they make up for it in water. Still remarkable creatures of this earth.
Snorkelling with Sea Lions
I had a spare day after whale watching and visiting the penguins and elephant seals so I decided to get up at 6 am on the day of my return flight to Buenos Aires and do what was possibly one of my favourite life experiences ever. I was going to get in 6 degree water and swim with the sea lions. You were provided with a dry suit to help deal with the cold which you were carefully dressed and sealed within, before getting on a small boat. My boat only had 3 other tourists. We drove out at dawn about half an hour, to a coastline of rock where there were only sea lions. Thoughts crossed my mind of swimming with what could be considered shark prey but I was reassured by the guide that the sea lions loved it here so much as they were not hunted or under threat from sharks so we as humans would not be either.
Sea lions are really so aptly called the dogs of the sea. They are inquisitive, playful and friendly. One of the pups even gently nibbled my hand much like a puppy does when it's sussing out new textures. Some were even spinning up and around you. It was hard not to interact but we were under strict instruction to remain impartial to their interactions. Let them investigate you but do not splash, touch, or interact in anyway that might make them feel unease.
Even with the dry suit when the time was up I was in fact ready to get out the water. It was still super cold, but I was still longing for more time with the sea lions themselves. Who knows, if or when I will ever get this close again!
For more video footage of the Southern Right whale, please visit my instagram travel profile with the handle @talking_in_pictures.
Happy Travelling
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